Building kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities by Steve Cory
By Steve Cory
Often the costliest a part of a preservation is the cabinetry. shop important money and time by way of following the professional information and step by step directions in Building Kitchen cupboards and toilet Vanities. discover ways to construct and set up attractive, solid, customized cupboards that would rework your kitchen and lavatories. here is the key: cupboards and vanities are strangely effortless to construct. For a fragment of the price to shop for, you'll learn how to make specialist, fine quality, strong cupboards with this seriously illustrated advisor. every one project--in numerous kinds: Shaker, slab, cottage--is depicted in nice aspect with easy-to-follow guideline, so even a beginner with easy instruments can construct each one part. extra enhance building recommendations also are explored to entice pro-level developers.
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Additional resources for Building kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities
Hickory veneer with book-matched flitches. Slip-matched birch, with figures that seem to march in step. Wood 39 MDF that is 3⁄4 in. thick is often used for cabinet cases and doors that will be painted. Particleboard is inexpensive and fragile, but can be useful in certain circumstances. MDF ers can anchor Euro-type hinges securely to it). It is easily chipped and will swell if exposed to water. Particleboard can be used for cabinet parts that will not be exposed to moisture but should not be used elsewhere.
Or you can use a jointer to plane a side of the board straight. A more pronounced bow, called a crook, usually cannot be straightened. Twist Cup Bow or crook • If end splits are very short, they can be cut off. If a longer split is near the center of the board, you can rip-cut the board along the split line, resulting in two narrow boards that will be usable. • S urface checks are usually a cos- End splits metic problem, but one that probably cannot be sanded away. Surface checks • B oards that wave visibly along their faces are very difficult to straighten or plane smooth.
Some old-fashioned woodworkers use long handplanes for jointing. If you have strong arms and not much jointing to do, you may want to try this. If you need to joint only the narrow boards used for cabinet or door rails and stiles, you may be able to use a thickness planer; many can be adjusted to joint edges of boards up to 6 in. wide. Thickness planer If your boards are not all smooth and of uniform thickness—as is often the case with hardwoods—a thickness planer is a very useful tool. Start feeding a board into a thickness planer, and the tool will do the rest, slowly pulling the board on rollers while its cutters smooth one side at a time.