Art Of Woodworking - Cabinets And Bookcases by K. Winchester
By K. Winchester
;Art Of Woodworking - cupboards And Bookcases КНИГИ ; ХОББИ и РЕМЕСЛА Автор: ok. Winchester Название: cupboards And Bookcases Издательство: Time-Life Books Год: 2005 Формат: djvu Размер: 5,2 МбДля сайта: www.mirknig.comКнига на английском языке.Книги из серии The artwork Of Woodworking являются энциклопедией столярного дела.В них можно найти все, что связано со столярными работами.Разобраться можно и без знания английского языка, книги богато иллюстрированы.Выпуск посвящён изготовлению мебели для кабинетов и книжных шкафов. .comuploading.com eighty five 1 2 three four five
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Additional resources for Art Of Woodworking - Cabinets And Bookcases
63⁄4 in. 2 in. 7 in. 2½ in. 36 4 in. Mortise for bottom shelf support bookcase with tusk tenons Stub tenons on bottom shelf support, ½ in. long x ¼ in. thick, with ¼-in. shoulders on all sides cleaning up the mortises made with a drill press in earlier projects. This time, you only have to work on the ends, not the entire sidewall. -deep mortises near the bottom for the bottom shelf supports and a similar mortise near the top for the crest rail. These mortises serve simply to position those trim pieces.
Glue these pieces in place, centering them on the posts. ) ADD CLEATS TO THE RAILS. Hold the side rail cleats in place with yellow glue and a few wood screws. Knock-Down Joinery There are several types of hardware designed to secure the bed rails to the headboard and footboard and to come undone so the bed can easily be moved. I prefer to use bedrail fasteners that hook together. I screw the hook portion of the connecter into a shallow mortise in the ends of the rails; the plate that captures the hooks screws into a shallow mortise on the posts.
Use yellow glue to join the boards, just the way you glued up the top for the tabouret, in chapter 3. Clamp the boards and allow them to cure for at least an hour, preferably overnight. I usually use the curing time to select and mill the remaining components. Once the glue has cured, scrape off any squeeze-out and run the boards through the planer. Remove minimal material from one face and then the other. This will help keep the boards flat. Plane until the planks are a consistent and uniform thickness.